The Spring/Summer 2018 season marked a pivotal moment in Burberry's history. Riccardo Tisci, the celebrated Italian designer known for his darkly romantic aesthetic at Givenchy, took the helm, succeeding Christopher Bailey. His debut collection, showcased at London Fashion Week, wasn't just a collection; it was a statement, a bold reimagining of the iconic British brand, and a whirlwind of media attention chronicled extensively by Vogue and other fashion publications. This article delves deep into the Burberry SS18 Vogue coverage, examining the runway looks, the beauty aesthetic, the models chosen, the critical reception, and the wider cultural impact of Tisci's debut.
The anticipation surrounding Tisci's first Burberry collection was palpable. Bailey's tenure, while commercially successful, had arguably become somewhat predictable. The fashion world was eager to see how Tisci would inject his distinct vision into a brand so deeply entrenched in its heritage. The collection, officially titled Burberry Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear (a slight nomenclature confusion frequently encountered, as the show was for SS18 but presented in the typical Fall/Winter schedule), delivered a dramatic departure from the past while subtly nodding to the brand's history. Vogue's coverage captured this tension perfectly, highlighting the juxtaposition of the familiar and the unexpected.
Runway Looks: A Fusion of Heritage and Modernity
The SS18 runway show was a spectacle of contrasting elements. Tisci's signature gothic romanticism blended seamlessly with Burberry's classic checks and trench coats. The collection featured a wide range of styles, from exquisitely tailored suits and flowing dresses to more youthful, streetwear-inspired pieces. The iconic Burberry check was reimagined, appearing in unexpected contexts and color palettes. Instead of the traditional beige and brown, Tisci experimented with vibrant hues, bold prints, and unexpected textures. Vogue's photography showcased the intricate detailing of the garments, capturing the subtle play of light and shadow that defined the collection. Specific pieces that garnered significant attention included:
* The Reimagined Trench Coat: While a staple of the Burberry brand, Tisci's trench coats were updated with modern silhouettes and unexpected embellishments. Some featured dramatic oversized proportions, while others were deconstructed and reassembled in innovative ways. Vogue's detailed shots emphasized the craftsmanship and the subtle but impactful changes to this iconic garment.
* The Bold Prints and Graphics: Tisci incorporated bold graphic prints and logos, a departure from Bailey's more understated approach. These prints, often featuring mythological creatures or abstract designs, added a layer of edginess and modernity to the collection. Vogue's reviews highlighted the innovative use of these prints and their contribution to the overall narrative of the collection.
* The Playful Silhouettes: The collection showcased a fascinating interplay of contrasting silhouettes. Fluid, feminine dresses were juxtaposed with sharp, tailored suits, creating a dynamic and visually engaging presentation. Vogue's runway reports emphasized this duality, showcasing the versatility of Tisci's vision.
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